Monday, September 14, 2009
Thoughts at the end of the road....
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Hanging out in the local wifi hot spot, The Daily Buzz coffee shop while the girls get their hair washed at the local hair wash place. Herman cloistered in the back of Anne's truck. Thought we would be busy working around the old homestead today. Sarah up at dawn to get pics of sunrise over the Tetons. Says she watched a hot air balloon drift in the distance and an ultralight plane flew right over the property. Herman and I a little late getting out of bed. Cold morning as we sat on the porch drinking coffee and savoring the sun as it gently lights up the valley. Anne sleeping in late. A trait she has always been able to do with expertise. Breakfast of eggs and toast. Washed dishes with water heated on the stove. Mixed marinade for tonight's chicken dinner improvising since Anne didn't get several of the ingredients. It'll be fine. Expecting about 8 guests. Going to check out the local outdoor equipment stores.....
Tetonia...
Outside of Rexburg we headed due east. The jagged peaks of the Tetons are pale thru the afternoon haze. I remember a question often asked by tourists when I lived here 30 years ago: “On what side of the range was the guy standing when he attached the name The Grand Teton to the tallest peak?” Living on the east side, in Jackson, I wondered why anyone would ask that, until I gazed from the Idaho perspective, the perfect pert lines from which it was so aptly named. Obviously a lonely time for French trappers then.
Anne’s cabins sit on six acres of flat grass land. Until she moved these 3 structures here there was nothing taller than a fence post. Sarah and I are sitting on the back porch of the original 100 year old log cabin, the first to be trucked to this site. She, on the swing knitting the perpetual black and yellow and pink and green blanket and me sitting on a stump typing away and drinking bourbon as the shadows lengthen across the brown grass and The Grand juts proudly in the distance above the foothills and Grand Targhee Ski Area. Herman is busy exploring under piles of wood, beneath an old sawed off pickup trailer, around a tractor tire and thru piles of discarded lamps, ice chests, rusted camp stoves, unidentifiable and unusable building material. Anne says we are going to make a dump run!
This cabin, the original, was an Mormon's homesteaders cabin. A single room, 16 x 18, it has newspaper and plaster for chinking and an old wood stove that has already caught the roof on fire once (while 8 outdoor friends of my sister were sleeping on any flat surface after a day of hard backcountry skiing). Next she poured a slab and moved a more contemporary two story cabin next to it. Cutting doors in the back of both structures she connected them with rough hewn logs to make a kitchen area. With propane cooking stove and refrigerator it is quite serviceable as long as you bring in water to fill the 55 gal. plastic barrel from Glory Bee Honey in Eugene and don’t mind tossing the 5 gallon bucket of gray water out the window. Until recently illumination was provided by candles and oil lamps but now she has a solar panel that powers music and lights. A composting toilet is tucked away in the bathroom. Efficient for #2 but everyone has to pee outside! A claw footed bathtub sits on cinder blocks. If you want to go to the trouble you can heat water on the stove and ladle it over you. The runoff collected in a tray underneath and, you guessed it, tossed outside.
Not able/willing to get rid of any of the stuff inherited from my parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles both cabins are filled with antique tables, silver tea servers, and irreparable fine china. Pictures of ancestors cover a wall as collected art (some fine, some not so fine) hang everywhere. Despite obvious work and energy to prepare this place for us, a perpetual thin layer of dust coat most flat surfaces and flies gather to socialize around every window.
Arco...
Hwy. 20, a black asphalt ribbon laid out east west thru the middle of the state of Idaho. High sagebrush desert with the ridge of the Sawtooths to our left. Surreal flow of black jagged rock as we drive along the north edge of Craters of the Moon. I learn at the visitors center that the entire flat plain that bisects central Idaho in a crescent from Boise to Idaho Falls was formed by a series of volcanic caulders beginning in the west 14 million years ago and ending in recent geological time in the active Yellowstone region. A convenient pathway for the I-84 byway and due to erupt at any time now!
At the moment, Sarah is driving so I can type. We are east out of Arco with open plain, the horizon dotted by isolated buttes and cones and complexes of odd shaped buildings surrounded by fences and signage proclaiming “Restricted Area. Property of the US Dept. of Energy”---EBR1. The first atomic energy reactor in the country.
Lunch in Arco. ”The First City Powered by Atomic Energy” is proudly, if not somewhat peeling, stenciled on the front of town hall. We stop at Pickles in the shadow of Numbers Mountain, as identified by the sign in the little park, where high school kids thru the decades brave the heights and vertical cliff to paint their graduation year. Two semis, 10 Harleys, and four pickups with either a dog or a hay bale in the back are parked along side the bright green diner. A 9 ft. green rocking chair sits patiently by the front door awaiting a photo op. The bikers, who I slowed down for 20 miles back so they could rumble past, are gathered around a long table near the front. Still wearing leather chaps they look more like members of the Lion’s Club than a motorcycle gang. Sarah and I decline the Atomic Burger and both get the daily special of hot meat loaf sandwich served on white bread with mashed potatoes drowned in brown gravy. And, yes, a pickle. One came with the salad too!
Herman the wonder dog is proving to be a perfect road companion. He quietly sleeps in the back seat shedding on fleece jackets and knitting projects or rides high perched on his plastic box of toys and blankets staring at the scenery or flirting with the flagger at the road construction site. At rest areas or pull outs in the desert he eagerly bounds out to sniff his environment and pee on anything as if to say, “Herman was here!!”. At last nights motel altho we did pay the $4.32 dog fee and he was able to actually jump up onto the bed, we made him sleep on his cushion on the floor. Up only once for a couple of halfhearted warning “woofs” when people walked past our motel door.